Jim Banks: Riding Waves, Crafting Legends
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Jim Banks in his shaper room in Kerobokan, Bali - Picture by Nicki Antognini
"I’ve learned far more from getting it wrong than from getting it right... Even now, I’m still experimenting and learning."
I believe this isn’t the first time I’ve written a story about Jim Banks. There’s so much to say about the man. Jim is a legendary surfer and master surfboard shaper whose adventures began long before I was born. A natural storyteller and fascinating individual, Jim’s tales have captivated me since we met seven years ago. Over decades, he’s honed his craft, shaping his first surfboard at 12 and continuing to refine designs 50 years later. Working with Jim has been a privilege, and I’m lucky to call him both a collaborator and a friend.
We first met in 2017 during a shoot at Secrets (Uluwatu, Bali), where I assisted another photographer. Jim led us down the long, steep stairs carved into the cliff beneath Uluwatu Surf Villas to a small, secluded beach. While I struggled to navigate the uneven steps and rocks, Jim moved effortlessly, carrying two 8-foot boards with agility. At the time, I didn’t know much about surfing – and while I’m still far from being an expert – Jim’s stories sparked my interest. Since then, every time I have visited Bali, meeting up with Jim has become a must. In 2020, when I finally moved to the island full-time, our collaboration took off.
Jim’s family is as epic as his life story, and I’m fortunate to count Harley – Jim’s second son – among my closest friends. You can learn more about Harley in the “From Lows to New Horizons” article. Since then, Harley’s journey has taken on new dimensions that he can be incredibly proud of – but that’s a story for another time.
Back to Jim: his tales, paired with Harley’s perspectives, paint a picture of a life that feels almost cinematic – the kind of story you’d expect to find only in your wildest dreams.
Can you share what your childhood was like and how it led you to travel the world in pursuit of surfing?
My childhood was all about exploring—first the bush, usually on my own, collecting lizards, tortoises, and exploring creeks. When my parents moved closer to the ocean, that curiosity shifted to the sea. In Cronulla, with its many reef breaks, I spent my time figuring out which spots worked best with different tides, swell directions, and sizes.
This sense of curiosity has always been a driving force for me, especially in seeking out perfect waves. Even in school, we would draw perfect waves in our books, always imagining that ultimate ride. Indonesia became the ideal place for me—endless waves and so many still waiting to be discovered.
From shaping your first board at 12 years old to perfecting the bottom contours 50 years later, could you walk us through the evolution of your shaping process? What inspired you along the way, and what key lessons did you learn throughout this journey?
Shaping surfboards began out of necessity—I simply couldn’t afford to buy a new one. Luckily, there was a guy nearby who sold blanks, and with his help, along with my father’s support, I started making boards at just 12 years old. It was all self-taught, a long journey of trial and error to understand surfboards and their design—a journey I’m still on 50 years later.
The inspiration was always about creating a board that felt right, one that responded well and performed as needed. Growing up in Cronulla with its challenging reef breaks, I had to develop boards capable of handling extreme conditions. At the same time, my unexpected entry into pro surfing pushed me to create boards that could compete at a world-class level. Balancing these two demands became the driving force behind my designs.
Even now, I’m still experimenting and learning. Thankfully, with decades of experience, most of what I try works well, but when it doesn’t, I gain invaluable lessons. In fact, I’ve learned far more from getting it wrong than from getting it right.
I remember meeting you for the first time in Bali in 2017. What’s your impression of Bali and its surf scene, and how has the island influenced your personal and professional life over the years?
Bali has been a profound influence on me since my first visit in 1977. It shaped not only my surfing but also my outlook on life. There’s an energy here, a magical, sacred, and mystical presence that I never experienced in the Western world. It fundamentally changed how I see the world.
Bali has also been an incredible place to develop my surfing and refine my boards. Living here now is amazing, with Uluwatu right on my doorstep—an ideal testing ground with every type of wave imaginable, from soft, weak days to powerful swells. This island feels like home to me, even more so than Australia. I resonate deeply with the culture here, which feels freer and more relaxed.
That said, it’s bittersweet to see how busy Bali has become, with people arriving to chase business opportunities that don’t always align with the island’s essence.
Jim, you’ve lived a life full of freedom and adventure. How did becoming a parent shift your perspective, and what was it like to transition to having your kids around while still pursuing your passion for traveling, surfing and shaping?
Initially, becoming a parent didn’t compromise my love for traveling and exploring. Most of the time, I’d bring the whole family along, and we’d explore together—spending months in Bali or camping in the Western Australian desert during the winter.
It wasn’t until my second marriage that things became more restrictive, making it harder to maintain the same freedom. But in those earlier years, it was all about hitting the road as a family and embracing the adventure together.
How has fatherhood influenced your lifestyle and creative process? Did having your children close to you bring new insights or challenges to your journey?
Being a parent has definitely been challenging at times. I’ve never been involved in highly profitable ventures, so supporting a family of four, five, or six while trying to live like a gypsy chasing perfect waves wasn’t easy. Financial pressure was constant, and building surfboards just didn’t provide enough income to meet everyone’s needs. We often fell deeper into debt, but I was fortunate to get lucky with real estate. I’d buy land, build a house with friends, and when the value increased, we’d sell, clear the debt, and start again. That cycle kept us afloat financially.
Parenting doesn’t come with an instruction manual—you’re left to figure it out as you go. Like every parent, I made mistakes, some of which weighed heavily on me. But throughout it all, the most important thing for me was to ensure my children felt deeply loved. There were times I disagreed with their choices, and they saw me as unsupportive, but my intent was always to guide them toward paths I believed would bring them more fulfillment. It wasn’t until my third marriage, with no children of our own, that I truly began to understand the role of guiding and actively supporting children to help them become better people.
Looking back, I’m incredibly proud of my kids. They’re talented, independent, and creating meaningful lives for themselves. My son Harley, for example, lived in Indonesia from age 11 to 16, where we homeschooled him, and he joined me on charter boats. When he returned to Australia to complete high school, he quickly recognized the shortcomings of the education system. He said, “There’s no incentive to excel; it’s all about staying in the middle of the pack.” Growing up in Indonesia taught him so much about respect and connecting with people, lessons that shaped the person he is today.
Pictures: Nicki Antognini & Putu Surf Photographer
Words: Jim Banks & Nicki Antognini
Thanks to: Jim for always sharing the most intimate stories
Links: Jim Bank Surfboards & Putu Surf Photography